The Helen Pencil Skirt

At long last my latest (and most favorite) pattern has finally been released!

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It feels like this one was a long time coming. I believe the idea came to me way back in early spring but the process of bringing the idea to fruition, which you can read about in the Design Series, takes a long time. And now it’s finally here, just in time for fall!

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Which is great since the skirt was designed with fall and winter in mind.

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The inspiration for this piece is my friend Helen. She is a very stylish woman who always wears skirts and heels, even if it’s to take her two dogs and 3 year-old son to the park. Helen the lady is classy, sexy and curvy. Helen the skirt is, too. It’s the kind of skirt that would look great worn in the office with a fitted blouse, or to the farmers’ market with a simple t-shirt. It’s for the woman who does it all and wants to look good doing it.

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You can find the skirt on Ravelry, or on the Knit Picks website where you can make a kit and buy the yarn and pattern at the same time. Couldn’t be easier!

I must again thank Eleanor Dixon for technical editing. And an enormous thank you to Helen Walls for being my muse and model. I asked her if she could bring some coordinating clothes and accessories to the shoot with her and she showed up with the most perfect outfit without having ever seen the skirt in person. And of course she looked amazing! Thanks lady!

Design Process Series, Installment Five – Pattern Writing

Well, there you have it folks. We’ve made it all the way to Installment Five before we actually begin writing the pattern. I guess I always thought that it was the hard and time-consuming part, but really, it’s part that I find comes the easiest and doesn’t take nearly as long as I had originally anticipated.

Once I’ve determined what yarn, stitch patterns, construction techniques and dimensions I want to use, it’s time to put it all together into words. And those words need to make sense to absolutely anybody and everybody who reads them, providing they know a bit about knitting. I guess that’s where my science background comes in handy. I see pattern writing as essentially the same thing as writing a lab report, and boy have I written a lot of lab reports over the years!

First you have your Purpose/Hypothesis: I give a brief introduction to the pattern, usually touching on the inspiration for the piece and the important design details. The hypothesis is that if you follow these instructions then you will end up with an item looking like the one in the picture, more or less.

Next, your Materials: The amount and type of yarn needed, needle type and size, tapestry needle, various other implements and notions.

Then on to Methods: Starting off with a glossary, followed by step-by-step instructions of how to “replicate the experiment” / “knit the garment”.

And finally, Conclusions: I like to (and you really should) include a drawn-to-scale schematic showing the finished measurements of the blocked piece.

Also, like in a lab report, I try to stick with a third-person, passive voice. I guess it’s my training, it just seems natural to me that this should be the way to write instructions. There has been some debate about this, and I must say I don’t adhere to it 100%. There are often times that it comes across sounding weird, and other times where I just want to lighten the mood a little. Like in the upcoming Helen Pencil Skirt, I have one section called “The Straight Part” and another called “Hip to Waist Shaping (AKA the Curvy Part).” The beauty of this not actually being a lab report is that it’s okay to not take yourself too seriously now and then.

Another aspect of pattern writing that draws some debate is whether to write first and knit later, or vice versa. For my first pattern I worked out all the numbers, knit the pattern taking notes along the way, and then wrote the pattern. This seemed like a good idea at the time, and it didn’t work out too badly, but in the end it’s not the ideal method for me. For one, I am not the most organized nor diligent person in the world. I had to do some real sleuthing to figure out what I had done when it came time to write it all down weeks later. Also, once the pattern was written I didn’t know for sure that it was easy to follow again. So then I knit a whole other sample. For all subsequent patterns I have written the pattern first and then sat down and knit the sample from the instructions. Yes, this means tinkering with the pattern along the way, but it’s much easier to make adjustments to the pattern once it’s written. And it also lets me find possible mistakes and ambiguities that I might not have noticed otherwise.

The hard part of pattern writing for me is formatting. In an ideal world I’d be using something like Corel Draw or InDesign to put together my patterns in a very lovely snazzy-looking way. But, the world not being ideal, I don’t have the budget to fork out thousand(s) of dollars for those programs. And I’ve tried working with free programs like Inkscape and Scribus, but the learning curve is so steep that I have a hard time dedicating my time to figuring them out. So, sadly, I hobble my patterns together in Microsoft Word and use CutePDF to convert them to PDF’s. The end product still looks good, and it gets the information to the consumer, but maybe when I grow up I’ll get them looking real fancy-like. For now, here’s a little view of what my patterns look like.

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Join me next week at the same bat-time on the same bat-channel for Installment Six – Editing and Testing.

Introducing The Eleanor Romper

After a long drought, I have finally released a new pattern, the Eleanor Romper! This was my first pattern through the Knit Picks Independent Designer Partnership program, and hopefully the first of many. I really enjoyed working with them, and their yarn.

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The Eleanor Romper is a darling little one-piece outfit for babies. Worked with a seamless top-down raglan construction, the romper features a simple but elegant cable pattern running down the sleeves as well as the sides, all the way down to the ankles. 

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The design is suitable for boys or girls so it can be a gender-neutral baby gift or made more masculine or feminine with color and button choice. This is the kind of garment that will be cherished by parents and passed down through generations.

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I would like to give a huge Thank You! to Ryan and Vanessa Barr for letting me photograph their adorable little girl!

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Also, to Eleanor Dixon for another wonderful job with Technical Editing.

You can download the pattern, and even buy the yarn at the same time, at Knit Picks website.

Why’d You Lie, Swatch?

I’ve read about other designers experiencing swatches that lie, but had not yet had the pleasure myself… until now. I just finished up the new sample of my next pattern using the Stroll Sport yarn Knit Picks had sent me. I had already finished another sample using another yarn and everything came out fine. The pattern had already been written, edited and tested so it should have been really straight forward. I should have known something was wrong, and stopped what I was doing immediately, when I blocked the piece and was unable to get the garment to comply to the schematic measurements. But I pressed on and even sewed on all 15 buttons. Then I decided that it might be a good idea to re-check my gauge. I measured it in 6 different places and then averaged it out… and the result was not pretty. The row gauge is actually 7 stitches per inch rather than the 8 stitches per inch that I used for all my calculations.

Do you know what this means? If I was just knitting this piece for myself then I could just say, “Meh, close enough, it’ll still fit.” But since this is my design it really needs to be right. So, the only solution I can see is to redo the math, change the numbers in the pattern, and… wait for it… rip the sample back to the end of the yoke and start again.

I’ve heard the advice to check the gauge after you begin knitting, but it hadn’t quite sunken in until just now. Off I go to rip and rewrite!